With this volume Ulrich Lehnart presents the first part of the last volume of his Costume Studies of the Middle Ages. This volume covers the period from the end of the Middle Ages to the end of the first phase of the early modern period. In costume history, this is a period in which clothing and armour changed gradually, but radically in the final result. The change of style in civilian and military fashion makes it obvious that people also entered a new age externally. The abundance of individual phenomena relating to weapons and costumes and the contemporary pictorial material proved to be so great that it seemed advisable to divide the material into two parts. Thus, the first part of the volume is limited to the equipment of the lansquenets and their wives as well as that of the knights. The first part of this volume deals mainly with the clothing of the lansquenets, which means that for the first time in this series of books, the foot soldiers are presented at the beginning. The second part focuses on the armour of the cavalry. The history of the development of German armour from the Baroque Gothic period through the transitional period to the early Renaissance is presented in detail. Numerous smooth and grooved cuirasses are represented with photographs of originals and first-class copies. Finally, in the last part, in addition to the weapons of the cavalry, the blank and pole weapons of the infantry are described and illustrated in detail for the first time. The second part volume will then deal with the civil fashion or dress of nobles, burghers and peasants as well as the armament of bourgeois and peasant formations and their armament including firearms. The present book is illustrated with more than a dozen colour plates and over 200 photographs, about half of them in colour. The number of patterns, on the other hand, is limited to the bare minimum, since changes in tailoring are to be one of the main subjects in the second volume.
Index
Foreword Acknowledgements Introduction: social and historical conditions of fashionable change
PART I: THE CLOTHING OF RICE-RUNNERS AND LANDSKNECHES Dress around 1500 The clothing in detail The clothing of the rice runners and landsknechts ca. 1510 to 1530 The clothing of the women of the troop 1500-1530
PART II: ARMOUR The armour in its entirety The Reisigen - clothing and armour Hornets of the cavalry The armour of the Reisläufer and Landsknechte
PART III: THE ARMS The Arms of the Cavalry The Arms of the Rustlers and Landsknechts Italian Bare Arms
Appendix
OVERVIEW OF COLOUR AND B/W TABLES
Table A:Early Landsknechte 1485-1505 Panel B: Early Landsknechte c. 1500 Panel C: Classical Landsknechte c. 1520-1530 Panel D: Italian Mercenaries 1490-1525 Panel E: Trossfrauen c. 1500 and c. 1530 Panel F: Siegfried von Schwalbach and Kunz Schott von Hellingen Panel G: Feldharnisch der ersten Königsgarnitur Maximilians I. from 1495 Panel H: Reisiger c. 1500 Panel I: Protoriefelharnisch von 1505, A 192 HJRK Panel J: Italienischer Harnisch 1500-1510
Panel I: Hemd und Bruche, ca. 1500 Panel II: Hose, frühes 16. Table III: Landsknechtsrock, c. 1500 Panel IV: Landsknechtswämser Panel V: Trossfrauenkleid Panel VI: Kehlungen, Stufungen und Riefelungen nach Bruno Thomas Panel VII: Lanzen, Lanzenspitzen, Rüsthaken und Stauchringe Panel VIII: German Blankwaffen Panel IX: Katzbalger Panel X: Swiss Blankwaffen: Epee, Dagger, Sabre
Group
Books (first-hand)
Author
Lehnart, Ulrich
Title
Kleidung & Waffen der Dürerzeit, Band 1, 1480-1530
Details
Numerous colour plates, over 200 photos. 264 pages.