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Casting instructions


By following the simple steps illustrated above, detailed castings of the highest quality will be produced. Collectors of traditional Toysoldiers will appreciate the detail of our superior moulds and the ability to create sizable armies at an affordable cost.

White Metal Casting Techniques

You need a Prince August mould or any other mould, a domestic gas or electric cooker, a match, pliers, small knife or file.

  • Cover the work area with a piece of paper.
  • Handle the hot metal carefully.
  • If you don´t Clean up after yourself, you might not be allowed back into the Kitchen!
  • Metal spilled on a cooker can be removed when cold, marks can be polished off with steel wool.
  • Extreme care must be taken when using your heat source.

White metal casting is in essence a simple and uncomplicated process. There will, however, be occasions when special attention will have to be paid in order to achieve optimum detail on your castings. Small section areas such as rifles and swords are particularly tempermental, as are the large volume, body sections that encourage shrinkage in the cooling process of the alloy. Following the instructions carefully will avoid the majority of pitfalls and increase your understanding and enjoyment of the hobby.

  1. Dust the inside of the cold mould surface lightly and evenly with the release powder. This powder has a two-fold effect in both providing a microscopic gap through which the air can escape from the mould while pouring the metal and to protect the mould.
  2. The two halves of the mould are now fitted together and supported between the boards. Take care to ensure that the two mould halves fit flush together, bend into shape if necessary. The mould halves are then secured using two clamps. Excessive force while clamping will only result in the inability of the air to escape ahead of the metal.
  3. The alloy should have been previously heated in the ladle to the correct temperature. It is preferable that a small hotplate is used for this job rather than a naked flame. The correct casting temperature can be estimated with the help of a used match. Place the match into the metal, light smoke indicates correct temperature, excessive smoke indicates too high.
  4. Pour the metal quickly, but carefully into prepared mould. Fill to the top of the ingate as this has been designed to alleviate shrinkage in the cast figures. Lightly tap the mould immediately to ensure correct distribution of the metal to the extremities of the mould. Leave to cool. Under no circumstances should the mould be cooled with water.
  5. When the mould is sufficiently cool, dis-assemble the mould in the reverse process as above. Bend the mould if necessary to release the figure.
  6. Remove the ingate and any flashing with pliers and a small file. Your cast figure is now ready to paint. Do not worry if you fail to cast a perfect figure every time as they can be re-melted and used again.

Casting Fault Finding Chart



Metal not melting
  • Use a gas or electric cooker on high until metal is molten, then reduce heat.
  • Do not try to melt the talcum powder; melt the badge or bar.
Smoke coming from ladle
  • The ladle is covered with a rust protector which will burn off for the first five minutes. No action necessary.
Metal is not flowing into all parts
  • No talcum powder. The mould needs a thin coat which helps air to escape.
  • Too much talcum powder is blocking the details.
  • Metal not hot enough. Test temperature with a match.
  • Mould needs an airvent. Make a hole right through mould half in the missing part with a 1-1, 5mm drill bit or a yawl. You can also make a very small channel from the missing part of the top of the mould.
  • Use Modelmetal. No other metal casts as well.
  • Do not use a vise for cllamping the mould, because it will lock the air into the mould.
  • Use Prince August Clamps or rubber bands.
  • Use Prince August talcum. Not all talcum powders are suitable.
  • Pour the metal to the top of the mould to get full gravity pressure.
  • Tap the mould to shake down the metal.
Smoke coming from mould while pouring
  • Metal too hot. Melt more metal to cool and, check temperature with match.
  • No talcum powder on mould. Powder mould.
Flash on casting
  • Mould not clamped right. Use one one clamp with pressure point in the centre or two clamps on each side.
  • Mould too hot in the centre. Leave mould to allow heat to spread evenly.
Mould leaks
  • Mould not clamped right. Use one clamp with pressure point in the centre or two clamps at each side. For certain big moulds it might be necessary to use four clamps.
  • Check if there is a gap between mould halves. When opening the mould you might have bent the mould getting a casting out. Rectify this by bending halves towards each other.
  • You have not put the hardboard sides on the mould. This is essential to apply even pressure.
  • Put a clamp over the leaking point.
  • If above actions don't help, do the following: Where the metal is leaking from the figure, cut a v-shaped airvent going to the top of the mould with a hobby knife. It stops the escaping air from parting the moulds while pouring the metal
Mould exploding
  • Do not cool mould or metal with water. Even a small amount of dampness could be dangerous
Part of figure not compleatly filled
  • It is quite normal on a complex figure. It is sometimes necessary to cut or drill an airvent which enables air to escape more easly